Behind the pillbox I met two people sheltering from the near-horizontal rain. Purbeck bears the marks of its military-industrial legacy – the ruined village of Tyneham, which was commandeered by the army for exercises in 1943, the quarries, the Winfrith nuclear reactors and Bovington Camp, close to where TE Lawrence lived in seclusion at Clouds Hill. In front of the cottages was a squat brick pillbox, hunkered against the elements. The rain eased, revealing a curving ribbon of hills and shining white cliffs to the east Ackland and Townsend Warner were energetic presences in the village, organising dancing on the Five Marys as a republican alternative to George V’s Jubilee celebrations in 1935. Drawn to communism by the horrors of the Spanish civil war, the two women attracted the attention of MI5. Adding spice to this already heady mix, Sylvia Townsend Warner and her partner, the poet Valentine Ackland, came to live in Chaldon Herring. Two of the Powys sisters, Philippa and Gertrude, a novelist and artist respectively, also moved there. Chaldon Herring attracted a group of writers and artists – Llewellyn’s brothers, John Cowper and Theodore, both lived in the village, and Theodore fictionalised it as Folly Down in his 1927 novel Mr Weston’s Good Wine. Powys would be seen wandering the downs, dressed in a cloak, possibly on the way to visit his mistress, Gamel Woolsey. I paused at White Nothe cottages on the headland – built as coastguards’ houses, they were once lived in by the writer Llewelyn Powys and his wife, the American novelist and feminist Alyse Gregory. Walkers on the cliff path heading back towards Chaldon Herring. When excavated in the 1860s by an exiled Bourbon princess, the Duchess of Berry, the remains of two adults were discovered, one male, one female, both in sitting positions, stag antlers resting on their shoulders. Just north of Chaldon is a barrow grouping known as the Five Marys. The ebb and flow of human life over millennia is written into the ground in Purbeck.
Under the long-nosed hill of High Chaldon at the end of the lane was West Chaldon, only a few houses and a farm, but once part of a larger settlement, Holworth, abandoned in the 15th century. Leaving the village, I walked down a lane between rolling fields – plastic sheeting had been laid to warm the soil for crops, so the view resembled the swell of the sea, the foraging rooks imitating gulls. I made my way from the village green between thatched cottages past the church, where rooks noisily established their order of things. It’s the perfect place for a varied walk, with few roads, quiet valleys, a spectacular coastline and some intriguing history. Tucked into Purbeck’s hills, the village of Chaldon Herring, known also as East Chaldon, feels remote and sequestered.
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